2023 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone

Plenty of class, a subtle texture, balance and precision. It shows aromas of raspberries, red cherries, roasted meat, warm spices and some leather. Medium- to full-bodied with fine-grained tannins. The texture is so refined, restrained and savory, with a long, precise, chiseled finish. Almost crunchy, with an attractive note of orange peel. A complete red wine that’s 20% grenache with syrah, mourvedre, counoise and vaccarese. Drink or hold

98 points James Suckling

Domaine Charvin is one of those Châteauneuf du Pape estates that has built its reputation without much fuss or fashion. The Charvin family has grown vines in the region for generations, with Gérard Charvin taking charge in the 1990s and establishing the domaine as a favourite among lovers of traditional Châteauneuf. Today his son Laurent is closely involved. The approach remains refreshingly old school, with whole bunch fermentation, concrete vats and no new oak getting between the vineyard and the glass.

The family’s vineyards lie largely in the cooler northern sector of Châteauneuf du Pape, with Grenache forming the heart of the blend alongside Mourvèdre, Syrah and Counoise. Sandy and clay influenced soils help produce a particularly fragrant expression of the appellation. The 2023 vintage has plenty of Southern Rhône ripeness, but Charvin’s hallmark is freshness rather than brute force, with whole bunches adding spice, perfume and an attractive savoury bite.

Bright garnet crimson, with raspberry, Morello cherry and ripe strawberry followed by violet and blood orange. Fennel seed, liquorice, lavender and cracked pepper weave through the fruit, joined by black olive, rosemary and warm earth. The palate is generous yet wonderfully fluid, with juicy Grenache fruit, lively acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Cherry, anise, pepper and dried herbs stretch across a long, fragrant finish.

Charred octopus with white beans, tomato and saffron lands beautifully beside all that Grenache and Mediterranean spice. Lamb with rosemary, duck with olives, smoky eggplant with chickpeas or mushroom stuffed peppers could happily follow. 

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2042.