2023 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Very fresh and vibrant, with terrific white tree fruit and peach aromas, but this has terrific structure for a Mosel Kabinett, the fine tannins underlining the fruit beautifully. Very long finish for a wine with such a light body. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

94 points jamessuckling.com

Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is a benchmark Mosel Riesling from one of Germany’s most iconic vineyards. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr, or “sundial of Wehlen,” is a steep, slate-soiled slope that consistently produces Rieslings of breathtaking purity, floral lift and crystalline balance. Under the guidance of Ernst Loosen, this Kabinett is made in a classic style — low in alcohol, gently sweet, and finely etched with electric acidity and slate minerality.

Grapes are hand-harvested from ungrafted vines grown on blue Devonian slate. Fermentation is slow and cool in stainless steel, allowing the wine to preserve its bright fruit and fine aromatics. No oak is used, and there’s no need — everything here is about transparency, delicacy and precision.

On the nose it offers white peach, green apple, jasmine, lemon zest and wet slate. The palate is light and zippy, showing perfectly judged sweetness balanced by mouthwatering acidity. Flavours of lime, nectarine, honeysuckle and crushed stone lead to a finish that is clean, racy and long. It dances between fruit and minerality with ease — this is Riesling as only the Mosel can do.

Food pairing: perfect with spicy Thai or Vietnamese cuisine, pork with apple and fennel, fresh goat cheese, or sushi with yuzu and wasabi. Also excellent as an aperitif or with lightly spiced dishes.

Cellar potential: delicious young but capable of ageing 15 to 20 years or more. Over time it will develop honey, smoke and complex savoury detail while retaining freshness.