2023 DuMOL Chloe Vineyard Russian River Chardonnay, California

The 2023 Chardonnay Chloe is from the Flora Marrie Vineyard on Eastside Road, on volcanic red clay, gravelly soils on a plateau bench, and the rest is from behind the vineyard house on clay and sand. One of the richer wines in the range, it’s ripe but also savory on the nose, with golden peach, toasted incense, hints of toasted spice, and savory underpinnings. The palate is full and has some added depth of structure, with elegant length. Drink 2025-2035.

Late last year, Andy Smith handed over the winemaking portion of his title to Jenna Davis. Jenna has been with the winery for over ten years, joining as a harvest intern in 2014 and working up to assistant winemaker. Andy retains his roles as partner and winegrower at DuMOL but was ready to pass the torch to the next generation in the winery’s legacy. The 2023s for this report were tasted in Sonoma with Andy and Jenna, as they have been for all three years of my coverage. Earning top marks for what this vintage has to offer, across the range the wines capture freshness and retain the focused concentration that gives them serious potential for longevity.

95 points jebdunnuck.com

DuMOL Chloe Vineyard Chardonnay is one of the estate’s most prized single-vineyard bottlings from the Russian River Valley, an area celebrated for its cool climate and Burgundian-inspired Chardonnay. Winemaker Andy Smith crafts this cuvée from the historic Ritchie Vineyard, a site planted in the early 1970s on low-yielding, dry-farmed vines that deliver both concentration and elegance. Chloe is regarded as DuMOL’s most refined Chardonnay, marrying richness with remarkable mineral drive.

In the glass, it shows a bright pale straw colour with shimmering green reflections, a sign of freshness and vitality. The nose is deeply aromatic, offering layers of Meyer lemon, white peach, nectarine, and pear, supported by subtle notes of jasmine, hazelnut, and flinty wet stone. On the palate it strikes an exquisite balance between creaminess and tension. Citrus oil, stone fruit, and crushed rock minerality weave through a finely textured structure, while vibrant acidity carries the flavours to a long, precise, and saline finish. It is at once opulent and restrained, often drawing comparisons to great Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.

The terroir of the Ritchie Vineyard is central to its style. Old Wente clone Chardonnay planted in sandy-goldridge soils allows for low yields and small berries, intensifying flavour while preserving acidity thanks to the cooling fog of the Russian River Valley. Ageing in French oak barrels, about one-third new, with extended lees contact enhances the texture and complexity without overshadowing the purity of fruit.

Food pairings should highlight its luxurious yet mineral character: butter-poached lobster, roast chicken with morels, seared halibut, or truffle-infused risotto. Cellar potential is superb, easily 10 to 15 years, evolving into honeyed, nutty, and toasty complexity while maintaining its mineral spine.

Critics consistently score Chloe Vineyard Chardonnay in the mid to high 90s, and it is often described as one of California’s most complete single-vineyard Chardonnays. With limited production, it remains a highly collectible wine for those seeking both California power and Old World elegance.