2023 DuMOL Wester Reach Russian River Chardonnay, California

The appellation wine and calling card of the house, the 2023 Chardonnay Wester Reach is fresh on the nose, with notes of light flint, lime zest, bright flowers, white pepper, and green apples. It has a compact feel but with electric energy and a fantastic oily citrus texture on the finish. It’s a blend from five vineyards and was aged for 12 months in 20% new oak barrels. Drink 2025-2035.

Late last year, Andy Smith handed over the winemaking portion of his title to Jenna Davis. Jenna has been with the winery for over ten years, joining as a harvest intern in 2014 and working up to assistant winemaker. Andy retains his roles as partner and winegrower at DuMOL but was ready to pass the torch to the next generation in the winery’s legacy. The 2023s for this report were tasted in Sonoma with Andy and Jenna, as they have been for all three years of my coverage. Earning top marks for what this vintage has to offer, across the range the wines capture freshness and retain the focused concentration that gives them serious potential for longevity.

93+ points jebdunnuck.com

DuMOL Wester Reach Chardonnay is a benchmark expression of the Russian River Valley, showcasing the cool-climate character and precision that has made DuMOL one of California’s most celebrated producers. Crafted by winemaker Andy Smith, it blends fruit from DuMOL’s own estate parcels with select grower vineyards, bringing together both richness and elegance in one harmonious wine.

In the glass, the wine shows a pale straw colour with green-gold highlights, hinting at both freshness and depth. The nose is layered with aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, white peach, and green apple, alongside subtle notes of hazelnut, brioche, and wet stone. The palate is simultaneously creamy and taut, delivering citrus oil, orchard fruits, and flinty minerality wrapped in vibrant acidity and a long, precise finish. It carries Burgundian refinement but with the sunny generosity of California fruit.

The vineyards sit on sandy loam and alluvial soils, cooled by Pacific fog rolling into the Russian River Valley. This extended ripening allows for concentrated fruit with balancing acidity. In the cellar, whole cluster pressing, native yeast fermentation, and ageing in French oak (around a third new) with extended lees contact create texture, depth, and complexity.

Food pairings highlight both its freshness and richness: butter-poached lobster, roast chicken with herbs, wild mushroom risotto, or seared scallops. Cellar potential is excellent at 8 to 12 years, with honeyed and nutty complexity developing over time while retaining its bright mineral core.

Critics regularly award this wine scores in the mid to high 90s, placing it alongside California’s most respected Chardonnays. It offers pedigree and finesse comparable to cult names like Kistler or Aubert, yet remains more approachable in both style and price, making it a collector’s favourite.