2023 Eldridge Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

So much flavour, texture and length. Excellent intensity upfront but it quickly spreads and expands and runs. Bacon, grilled perach, citrus and savoury, salty inputs. Such a powerful wine and such a neat one at the same time. Fantastic chardonnay. Bang and you’re away. 95, tempted for 96.

 95 points Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front

“All the different parcels of chardonnay come together as one, whole-bunch pressed, fermented wild on full juice solids. It went through mlf and is aged in Mercurey puncheons, 25% new. It has latent power; now, it’s a bit nervy, sparking with electrifying acidity. It’s very good. Savoury, a little funky, with layers of nutty, creamy lees, grapefruit/lemon juice and zest. The oak is integrated superbly, and while there’s plenty of flavour, this is tightly wound and will be relaxed by the time it hits the market.” 

95 points Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion

High in Red Hill, Eldridge Estate has long been one of the Mornington Peninsula’s quietly distinctive small vineyards. The late David Lloyd shaped its reputation through decades of meticulous vineyard work and an unwavering belief that the site should determine the style of the wine. Chardonnay is an important part of that story, with Red Hill’s elevation and cool maritime climate giving it the combination of flavour, acidity and texture that has made the Peninsula such exciting Chardonnay country.

The cool, extended 2023 season suited Chardonnay particularly well. Slow ripening helped preserve citrus and stone fruit characters while building flavour gradually, giving the wine a restrained profile rather than overt richness. There is enough texture to make it interesting at the table, but freshness and savoury detail remain at the centre.

Pale straw gold, with white peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon followed by grapefruit oil and citrus blossom. Hazelnut, almond meal and a little struck flint add complexity, with a subtle sourdough note underneath. The palate is finely textured, moving from peach and preserved lemon towards cashew and mineral notes. Fresh acidity keeps everything taut before a long finish of citrus, toasted almond and gentle smoky complexity.

Butter poached marron with lemon and tarragon would be superb, alongside scallops with cauliflower and hazelnut, steamed snapper with ginger and spring onion, chicken with morels or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta. Our pick is the marron. Sweet shellfish and restrained, nutty Chardonnay is very difficult to improve upon.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.