2023 Eldridge Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Whole bunch gives lift but this wine is ultra strawberries in the truest sense of the word, in that it’s fresh strawberry rather than strawberry syrup. Smoked herbs, stones, hay and earth notes encase the whole, and compellingly so. There is so much elegance here but such an array too. This is beautiful. Slippery, twiggy, ripe, fresh, undergrowthy, a brand new box and a brand new dice.

95 points Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front

Stylish new sage-green labels are the first obvious difference and the heavy bottles close to 1.6kg when full. That’s less impressive, but everything else is impressive, thanks to Steve Flamsteed leading the team. He’s a craftsman with pinot noir and chardonnay so all the good things are in this: dark cherries, fragrant forest-floor aromas, pomegranate and blood orange with woodsy spices. Fuller bodied but not weighty, as there’s a refinement here, fine tannins, too, with raspberry acidity making it feel vibrant and, yes, still very youthful. It’ll garner more complexity in time, but it’s moreish and hard to resist now.

 96 points Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion

Eldridge Estate is one of those small Mornington Peninsula producers that has always been more interested in vineyard character than making lots of wine. The estate at Red Hill was established by the late David Lloyd, whose fascination with Pinot Noir helped build Eldridge’s reputation over several decades. Today the vineyard continues that legacy, with its cool elevated position producing Pinot of fragrance, detail and distinctly Mornington character.

The 2023 season was cool and relatively late across the Peninsula, conditions that suited Pinot Noir particularly well. Slow ripening encouraged perfume and fine tannin rather than sheer fruit weight, and Eldridge’s Red Hill site has the natural acidity to carry that delicacy. It is a lighter, more savoury expression, with enough depth underneath to reward a little time in the cellar.

Bright ruby with a translucent edge, opening with wild strawberry, Morello cherry and cranberry. Violet and rose appear next, followed by blood orange, clove, black tea and a touch of forest floor. The palate is silky and medium bodied, with red cherry and raspberry carried by fresh acidity and finely grained tannins. Orange peel and earthy spice add complexity before a long, gently savoury finish.

Crispy skinned ocean trout with shiitake and soy would be terrific, alongside Peking duck pancakes, pork and prawn dumplings, quail with pomegranate or miso glazed eggplant. Our pick is the ocean trout. Pinot’s red fruit and earthy spice against crisp skin, mushrooms and soy should be rather fabulous.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.