2023 Fabien Coche Pommard Vieilles Vignes Rouge, Burgundy

Fabien Coche Pommard Vieilles Vignes Rouge is a profound red Burgundy that shows why both the village of Pommard and the winemaker himself are so sought after today. The Vieilles Vignes cuvée comes from old Pinot Noir vines, many over 50 years of age, growing in clay-limestone soils that deliver power, depth, and a mineral spine. These small-yielding vines concentrate fruit intensity, while Coche’s hallmark light touch — native yeast fermentation, gentle extraction, and élevage in fine-grained oak with restrained new wood — shapes a wine of structure and finesse.

In the glass, it shows deep ruby colour and aromas of black cherry, wild strawberry, violets and earthy spice, with subtle oak and graphite. The palate is firm and layered, carrying dark fruit, mineral tension, and savoury forest floor notes on a frame of fine, chalky tannins. It is approachable in youth but has 10–15 years of ageing potential, rewarding patience with truffle, leather and spice.

What makes this wine especially compelling is the reputation of Fabien Coche himself. Having evolved the style of his family estate (formerly Coche-Bizouard), he is now firmly regarded as one of the Côte de Beaune’s rising stars. His approach is defined by organic farming, precision in the vineyard, and restraint in the cellar — a style that has caught the attention of collectors who admire his clarity of fruit and terroir-driven energy. Demand for his wines has surged in recent years, with allocations tightening across export markets.

For collectors, the Pommard Vieilles Vignes is a particularly exciting buy. It combines the muscularity and depth that makes Pommard a serious, cellar-worthy wine with the lift and freshness of Fabien Coche’s new-wave style. Scarcity adds to its appeal: production is limited, old-vine yields are naturally low, and demand continues to outpace supply as critics spotlight Coche’s rising profile. This makes it a smart wine to secure in multiples — one to drink in youth for its vibrancy, and others to lay down as it evolves into something more profound.

Food matches are robust and savoury: roast duck with cherry jus, beef bourguignon, venison with juniper, or porcini risotto. Semi-hard cheeses like Comté or aged Tomme also echo its earthy, nutty depth.