2023 Faiveley Champ Gain Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Burgundy

The classical elegance of Puligny-Montrachet is presented in a very fresh and pure manner with citrus zest and chalky energy. Also aromas of blanched almonds and some garden herbs. Stony, long and precise finish with beautifully integrated fine tannins. From organically grown grapes. Fermented and matured in barriques, one-third new. Drink or hold.

95 points James Suckling

More lemon than lime in the colour. This shows tension even on the nose and certainly delivers on the palate. Ripe citrus behind a full, but not lush, body of fruit, with a little spice behind. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Nov 2024.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Champ Gain sits high on the slope above Puligny Montrachet, where altitude brings a little more tension and freshness compared to the richer, lower lying sites. Domaine Faiveley, with roots back to 1825, has steadily refined its white wine style, now focusing on precision and site clarity while still delivering the depth you expect from a Premier Cru.

The 2023 feels both vibrant and composed. Aromatics lean toward lemon zest, white peach and pear, with a fine thread of white flowers, hazelnut and a gentle hint of struck flint. It’s lifted, but there’s substance sitting underneath.

There’s a lovely push and pull here, citrus and stone fruit wrapped around a subtle creaminess, with acidity threading through and keeping everything taut. You feel the elevation in the line of the wine, it never sits still, finishing long with a mix of mineral, citrus oil and a faint savoury edge.

This is one to stretch out with food. Think butter poached lobster, roast chicken with morels, or a delicate turbot with a light sauce. It also works beautifully with dishes like cauliflower with browned butter and capers, or a soft cheese with a bit of age where the texture of the wine comes into play.

Already showing beautifully, but this will settle in and build over the next decade, gaining more nutty, savoury layers.

There’s a quiet precision here, a Puligny that leans into finesse and length rather than weight.