2023 Faiveley Les Referts Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru, Burgundy

Les Referts sits on the Meursault side of Puligny Montrachet, and you can feel that influence straight away, a little more breadth, a touch more generosity, while still holding that Puligny line and precision. Faiveley handles it with restraint, letting the vineyard’s natural richness come through without losing focus.

The 2023 opens with a warmer, more inviting profile. Ripe lemon, white peach and pear sit alongside toasted hazelnut, a hint of buttered pastry and a gentle floral lift. There’s a subtle flinty note underneath, but it’s more about texture here than sharp minerality.

With air, it starts to widen. A touch of citrus curd, a flicker of spice and something slightly savoury build in the background, adding depth without weighing it down.

There’s a lovely glide to it. Fruit feels a little broader through the middle, wrapped in a soft, creamy texture from lees, but acidity keeps everything moving, pulling it back into line. The finish lingers on citrus oil, nuts and a faint stony edge that gives it shape.

This is where richer dishes really come into play. Butter poached lobster is an easy match, but it’s just as good with roast chicken stuffed with tarragon and garlic, or a veal schnitzel with lemon and capers. For something different, try it with a pumpkin and sage agnolotti or a cauliflower gratin with aged comté, where the wine’s texture and freshness balance things out beautifully.

Already drinking well, though it will build more nutty, savoury layers over the next eight to twelve years.