2023 Faiveley Les Porets St Georges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru, Burgundy

A lovely glowing purple. The bouquet is really exciting, dark red fruit, a little touch of coconut, generous yet fine, with some precision. Good tension, the strawberry is on the riper side but it all works. Drink from 2030-2036. Tasted Nov 2024.

92-94 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Les Porets Saint Georges sits on the southern side of the village, close to some of Nuits Saint Georges’ most serious sites, and it shows in the glass. This is a firmer, more structured expression of Pinot Noir, and Domaine Faiveley, with its long history and steady evolution under Erwan Faiveley, handles it with a level of precision that keeps power in check.

The 2023 opens with a darker, more compact profile. Black cherry, plum and blackberry sit alongside violet, clove and a subtle note of liquorice. There’s a deeper, earthier register here, with hints of forest floor and a faint smoky edge starting to show, giving it that classic Nuits intensity.

It takes a little time to stretch out, but once it does, the layers start to build. Spice, dried herbs and a touch of graphite come through, adding complexity without overwhelming the fruit.

Structure is the key. Tannins are firm and tightly knit, giving the wine real backbone, while acidity cuts through and keeps everything aligned. The fruit sits within that framework rather than on top of it, leading into a long, savoury finish with notes of dark fruit, spice and stone.

This is a wine that asks for food and a bit of patience. Braised beef, duck with lentils, or something like a slow cooked mushroom and black garlic dish all work beautifully. Even a rich vegetable gratin or roasted eggplant with miso brings out another side, the savoury depth really locks in.

It’s still in its early phase and benefits from a good decant, but it has the structure to age comfortably for fifteen years or more, gradually revealing more earth, spice and tertiary complexity.

There’s a seriousness here, but also a sense of control, a Nuits Saint Georges that delivers depth and structure without losing its line.