2023 Famille Hugel Classic Riesling, Alsace

This is a wonderfully fresh and expressive dry riesling with a slew of citrus aromas, but also some spring flowers and meadows. The vivacity of the medium-bodied palate is as impressive as the depth in the long, crisp finish, where it bares its Alsace soul. Drink or hold.

92 points jamessuckling.com

Famille Hugel Classic Riesling from Alsace is a textbook example of the region’s dry, mineral-driven white wines, crafted with precision and tradition by one of Alsace’s most historic producers. Hugel has been based in the picturesque village of Riquewihr since 1639, and their commitment to Riesling — the undisputed king of Alsace whites — is unwavering. The Classic range serves as a gateway to the Hugel style: clean, varietally true, and sourced exclusively from estate-owned or contracted vineyards within the finest terroirs of the region.

Grown on a mix of limestone, clay and ancient marl soils across the Haut-Rhin, the grapes for the Classic Riesling come from carefully selected sites that offer both fruit purity and a strong mineral backbone. 2022, a typical recent vintage, gave a clean, fresh crop with healthy acidity and great aromatic precision. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel using native yeasts, with no oak involved, allowing the wine to express its bright citrus and stony character unencumbered.

In the glass, it opens with aromas of lemon zest, green apple, jasmine and a gentle smokiness, underpinned by crushed rocks and white flowers. The palate is dry, crisp and linear, with flavours of lime, quince and fresh herbs riding on a spine of cleansing acidity. The finish is pure and persistent, with a nod to the saline mineral edge that great Alsace Rieslings carry.

This is an ideal match for oysters with mignonette, Thai fish cakes, roast pork with sauerkraut or even sushi. It’s best enjoyed young and fresh but can hold for five to eight years in the cellar.