2023 Frescobaldi Tenuta Castiglioni Chianti, Tuscany

The Frescobaldi family has been making wine in Tuscany for more than 700 years, but Tenuta Castiglioni has particular significance: it is the family’s oldest estate, southwest of Florence in the gentle hills of Montespertoli. The property has been associated with the Frescobaldis since the eleventh century, making this an unusually affordable way into one of Tuscany’s great wine dynasties.

Sangiovese leads the 2023, supported by complementary varieties that soften its edges and add fruit depth. The warmer hills around Castiglioni give a generous expression of Chianti, while Sangiovese’s natural acidity keeps the wine lively. This is not trying to be a monumental Tuscan red. Its charm lies in juicy fruit, savoury detail and the ability to make a plate of Italian food seem urgently necessary.

Bright ruby red, with Morello cherry, wild strawberry and red plum followed by violet and blood orange. Oregano, fennel seed and a little anise add savoury detail, with black tea and earthy spice underneath. The palate is medium bodied and juicy, with cherry at its centre, fresh acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Red fruit, dried herbs and a touch of terracotta linger on the appetising finish.

Rigatoni with pork and fennel ragù has its name all over this, while eggplant parmigiana, bistecca with rosemary, mushroom and taleggio pizza or grilled sausages with white beans will keep everyone happy. Our pick is the eggplant parmigiana, all bubbling tomato, melted cheese and crisp edges against that bright Sangiovese acidity.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.