2023 Giant Steps Sexton Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

Complex aromas of lemon curd, candied lime zest, mandarins and flint. The palate is medium-bodied with bright acidity, giving notes of orange peel, hazelnuts, grapefruit pith, pralines and pastry. Very polished and refined with an underlying tension. Delicious. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

97 points & Top 100 Wines Of 2024 James Suckling

Made from a 50/50% blend of Gingin and Bernard clones planted between 100 and 200m in Gruyere. Whole-bunch pressed to French puncheons (25% new oak) with 15% mlf. Right now, this is the most salivating and seductive of Giant Step's superb array of single-vineyard chardonnays from '23. Perfectly ripened white peach, pear and some marine scents lead onto the palate, which is gently textured, saline and structured. The finish is energetic, nutty and long.

97 points Special Value Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion July 2024

Light yellow colour with a reserved and smoky, baguette crust, lightly toasty, savoury bouquet; some traces of dried citrus peels. Cashewnut and pencil shavings too. Oak is there but very much in the background. A wine of precision and finesse, the remarkably sustained palate drive not distracted by a touch of phenolic grip that adds texture and emphasis. Outstanding chardonnay which combines classic chardonnay generosity with finesse and drive. 16 Jan 2025 Drink 2025–2037

96 points Huon Hooke, The Real Review

Giant Steps has become one of the defining names of modern Yarra Valley Chardonnay. Founded by Phil Sexton, the estate built its reputation around individual vineyards and the idea that the Yarra’s different elevations, exposures and soils deserve to be seen separately. Today winemaker Melanie Chester leads the team, continuing that site focused approach with beautifully precise Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Sexton Vineyard is particularly important to the story, sitting alongside the winery at Gruyere.

Sexton Vineyard occupies a steep, exposed slope in the central Yarra Valley, with Chardonnay planted across shallow, rocky soils derived from ancient siltstone. The elevation and exposure provide cooler conditions and excellent drainage, giving the wine concentration without sacrificing acidity. The 2023 has the depth expected from Sexton, but the attraction is the tension between ripe fruit, savoury complexity and that firm mineral backbone.

Bright straw gold with white peach, nectarine and grapefruit followed by lemon curd and citrus blossom. Cashew, almond meal and subtle toast sit alongside struck flint and gentle smoky reduction. The palate is concentrated and beautifully textured, with stone fruit and citrus filling the middle before vibrant acidity pulls everything into focus. Preserved lemon, toasted nuts and a cool mineral note stretch through the long, savoury finish.

Grilled marron with lemon and brown butter has enough richness to meet Sexton without swamping its freshness. Scallops with cauliflower, roast snapper, crab ravioli or charred corn with miso and sesame would take it in equally interesting directions. There is plenty of flavour here, so dinner can afford to have a little personality too.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038.