2023 Heirloom Shiraz, McLaren Vale

Aged mainly in third- and fourth-fill American and French oak, with some new barrels, for 16 months. There’s something reassuringly classic about this, about the silky cascade of brambly forest fruits, the inflections of chocolate and humus-rich earth, some iodine and violet, the light sprinkling of warm spices and dried herbs. Yes, it’s familiar, but it’s not old fashioned, with balance à point and oak a present but discreet chaperone. Tradition with a modern lens, and delicious drinking.

93 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Heirloom Shiraz from McLaren Vale is a bold yet beautifully polished red that showcases the richness and vitality of this coastal South Australian region. Crafted by Elena Brooks, one of Australia’s most talented and expressive winemakers, this Shiraz blends old-vine concentration with modern finesse, highlighting McLaren Vale’s dark-fruited power and Mediterranean warmth.

Sourced from low-yielding vineyards across the Vale’s diverse subregions, the fruit is picked at optimal ripeness, then wild fermented and matured in fine French oak barrels, a portion of which are new. Elena’s approach favours elegance over excess, with careful extraction and judicious oak integration ensuring the wine remains vibrant and layered rather than heavy.

Aromatically, it’s full of blackberries, plums and mulberries, wrapped in notes of dark chocolate, black pepper, dried herbs and violet. The palate is plush and seamless, with deep fruit concentration, silky tannins and a savoury spice complexity that lingers through the finish. There’s intensity, but also clarity and freshness, making it both cellar-worthy and delicious in its youth.

Perfect food pairings include grilled ribeye, slow-cooked beef brisket, eggplant moussaka or hard aged cheeses like cheddar or pecorino. Decant if drinking young, or cellar for 8 to 12 years to watch its spice and structure evolve beautifully.