2023 Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale

From original '46 vines next to the High Sands block. The '23 grenache wines are very pale in the glass, and they are all a degree lighter in alcohol due to the cool year (one I love). A vintage like this really illustrates the kinship with the avant-garde grenache of Gredos, and with Barbaresco, and refined Etna Rosso (Girolamo Russo in particular), rather than almost anything from the Rhône. Savoury, dried red fruits, cranberry, cherry and redcurrant, warm terracotta, bergamot, potpourri, sumac, ground cinnamon, star anise, so tightly coiled, but also tensile, finely expansive in its flavour delivery. There’s tension aplenty, and it promises to unfurl over a long life. Superb.

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Pale in appearance. The nose gives lifted aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries, sweet spices and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of dark cherries, dried herbs and cocoa. Exceptionally lifted and fresh. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

96 points jamessuckling.com

The 2023 Ovitelli Grenache is a marvel. The wine leads with orange peel and sarsaparilla, fennel, licorice and crushed shell. In the mouth, the tannins are sandy and very fine yet pervasive. They coat the mouth like a good Etna Rosso and give the fruit something to work with. This is bloody and gritty yet gossamer fine ... chalky doesn't quite cover it. I find this very exciting; the length really nails home the power and prowess of the region through the lens of this variety. The grapes are 100% destemmed, crushed and tipped into Clayver ceramic eggs with gentle hand plunging. The fruit remained on the skins post ferment for seven months, and no pressings were used in the wine. This matured in ceramic egg for a total of eleven months (no oak) and remained in bottle for a year prior to release. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

96 points Erin Larkin robertparker.com

Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache is a compelling and textural expression of McLaren Vale Grenache that showcases the elegance and natural structure possible from this historic variety when treated with care. Named after the large ceramic eggs (ovitelli) in which the wine is fermented and matured, this cuvée captures purity of fruit, gentle extraction and a distinct sense of place.

The fruit is sourced from bush vines planted in 1946 on the deep sands of Yangarra’s Blewitt Springs estate, one of the highest and coolest parts of McLaren Vale. These old vines produce small, intensely flavoured berries with exceptional balance and freshness. Winemaker Peter Fraser, a pioneer in biodynamic viticulture and low-intervention winemaking, guides the fruit through wild fermentation with a high proportion of whole bunches, followed by maturation for 11 months in the egg-shaped ceramic vessels. These vessels allow gentle oxygen exchange while preserving brightness and fine tannin structure.

The result is a Grenache of rare finesse. Aromas of raspberry, red cherry and rose petal are layered with spice, crushed herbs, orange peel and earthy undertones. The palate is savoury and silken, with a fine grip and chalky tannins that bring shape without weight. There’s energy and quiet depth that unfolds with each sip.

Food pairings include spiced lamb koftas, mushroom and farro salad, or roast duck with cherry glaze. It’s also excellent with Manchego or a grilled vegetable tart. Drink now for its vibrancy or cellar 10 to 12 years to explore its more savoury evolution.