2023 Hirsch Hirschvernugen Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Hirschvergnügen is harvested from some ancient vines in lesser-known but historic sites. Yeast, soil, pepper, crushed yarrow and fern all color the vivid pear fruit on the nose. The palate falls into a spicy-fruity, slender groove with a full flavor. (Bone-dry)

91 points Anne Krebiehl MW vinous.com

Hirsch Hirschvergnügen Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal is a joyful, energetic white that captures everything we love about Austria’s signature grape—zesty, peppery, and irresistibly drinkable. The name Hirschvergnügen is a playful mash-up of “Hirsch” (meaning deer, and also the family name) and Vergnügen (pleasure), which says it all: this is Grüner Veltliner made for pure, uncomplicated enjoyment.

Johannes Hirsch is one of Austria’s most respected biodynamic growers, known for his razor-sharp single-vineyard wines from Kamptal’s best sites. But with Hirschvergnügen, he takes a lighter approach, sourcing fruit from younger vines and various parcels across the estate to produce a wine that’s vibrant, clean, and full of varietal character without the weight or austerity of more serious bottlings.

The Kamptal region, just northwest of Vienna, is a perfect home for Grüner Veltliner—its loess and primary rock soils, coupled with warm days and cool nights, give the wine precision and freshness. Hirsch farms his vineyards with full organic and biodynamic certification, and the winemaking here is minimal: spontaneous fermentation, no added enzymes, and gentle handling throughout to retain purity.

In the glass, Hirschvergnügen Grüner Veltliner offers bright aromas of green apple, lemon zest, white pepper, and a hint of fresh herbs. The palate is crisp and lively, with crunchy acidity, subtle spice, and a dry, refreshing finish that keeps calling you back for another sip.

It’s the ultimate Grüner for any occasion—great with sushi, schnitzel, spicy Thai, or simply chilled on a sunny afternoon.