2023 Hither & Yon Shiraz, McLaren Vale

This came off four sites, including the Hillenvale vineyard, with 5% from vines that spill into the Adelaide Hills GI. Cooler sites lend a medium weight, a Hither & Yon theme across the range. Dark cherry and olive, black loose-leaf tea, violet, dark spices, dried seaweed and essence-like blackberry, but there’s nothing overly sweet or rich here. It’s supple, fruitful, effortlessly charming and such a versatile food wine. More powerful shiraz has its cohort of fans and its place, but it’s wines like this that better fit our modern way of eating and drinking, wines that can bring newer drinkers, or those fatigued, to appreciate our most planted red grape.

93 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Sun drenched vineyards and coastal breezes shape the easy confidence of Hither and Yon, a McLaren Vale producer focused on sustainability, transparency and vibrant regional expression. Established by the Leask family, the winery farms organically and works with minimal intervention to let the Vale’s diverse soils and maritime influence speak clearly in the glass. Their Shiraz captures the modern face of McLaren Vale, generous yet fresh, expressive without heaviness and designed to be enjoyed both young and with a few years of development.

A deep crimson purple colour sets the tone for an inviting aromatic profile of ripe blackberry, plum and dark cherry layered with hints of licorice, baking spice and a touch of dried herbs. There is a brightness to the fruit that keeps the wine lifted, complemented by a subtle savoury edge that adds complexity and regional authenticity.

On the palate the wine is supple and juicy, delivering rich black fruit flavours framed by smooth tannins and lively acidity. Notes of cocoa, pepper and gentle oak nuance flow into a long, satisfying finish that balances warmth with freshness. While immediately appealing, the structure allows for enjoyable evolution over five to eight years as more savoury and earthy tones begin to emerge.

This is Shiraz made for generous tables and relaxed gatherings. It shines with slow cooked lamb shoulder, chargrilled sausages, smoky eggplant dishes or rich tomato based pasta. Hither and Yon Shiraz brings the welcoming spirit of McLaren Vale to the moment, perfect for backyard dinners, shared platters and evenings where good food, good company and a sense of ease take centre stage.