2023 Hugel & Fils Gewurztraminer, Alsace

Striking aromas of cardamom, cloves and dried flowers. Very good balance of restrained richness, fine-grained tannin and bitterness on the medium-bodied palate. Surprisingly dry finish. Drink now.

90 points jamessuckling.com

Hugel & Fils Gewurztraminer is a benchmark example of Alsace’s most exotic and aromatic grape, produced by one of the region’s most historic family-owned estates. Founded in 1639 in the charming village of Riquewihr, Hugel & Fils is now in its 12th generation of winemaking, with an unbroken lineage of expertise and tradition. The estate works with both its own vineyards and trusted growers, many on mineral-rich clay, marl, and limestone soils that help shape Gewurztraminer’s rich texture and vibrant aromatics.

In the glass, it shines a brilliant pale gold, offering an expressive nose of lychee, rose petal, Turkish delight, and sweet spice, with subtle notes of ginger and ripe tropical fruit. The palate is lush and rounded yet perfectly balanced, delivering layers of mango, peach, and honeyed pear framed by gentle acidity. Hugel’s careful handling in stainless steel preserves the grape’s vivid perfume and fruit purity, making for a wine that is both indulgent and refined.

Its opulent style pairs beautifully with aromatic cuisine such as Thai green curry, Moroccan tagine, or Peking duck. It is also a classic match for strong cheeses like Munster or blue cheese, and its slight off-dry edge makes it superb with lightly spiced pâtés and terrines. While approachable young, it has the structure to evolve gracefully for 5–8 years, developing deeper honeyed and smoky notes over time.