2023 Immich Batterieberg Briedeler Herzchen 1er Cru, Riesling, Mosel

12% Alc. 40-year-old organically grown vines on iron-infused red and grey slate. Three days’ whole-bunch maceration. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel and used oak barrels.

The 2023 Briedeler Herzchen is intense in color and flavors that indicate perfectly ripe and aromatic fruit spiced with flinty and saline notes of gray and red slate. Intense and complex on the palate, this is an elegant, refined and stimulating saline Riesling with an excellent and irresistible savory finish. This is possibly the finest Herzchen Gernot Kollmann has produced so far. 12% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Drink 2025-2045. Tasted in December 2024.’

94 points Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Structure and elegance are precisely balanced in this ravishingly beautiful, barely medium-bodied Mosel masterpiece. What graceful peachy fruit this has, but it is the concentration and suspense building in the finish that make this really extraordinary. Extremely slatey finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

95 points James Suckling

Immich Batterieberg may be based in Enkirch, but Gernot Kollmann’s fascination with the Mosel’s forgotten vineyards reaches beyond the village. Briedeler Herzchen comes from Briedel, downstream towards Zell, and fits beautifully with his determination to shine a light on steep, historic sites that deserve far more attention. It is a quieter proposition than the estate’s Grand Cru bottlings, but that is part of its appeal.

Herzchen is a steep slate vineyard above the Mosel, with Riesling drawing fragrance and mineral character from the rocky soils. Classified by the estate as 1er Cru, it sits between CAI and the more imposing Grand Cru wines in the range. The excellent 2023 vintage gives it ripe fruit and generosity while retaining the bright acidity and dry, savoury profile that runs through Kollmann’s wines.

Pale straw gold, with lime, green apple and white peach leading into grapefruit and a little ripe apricot. Lemon blossom and fresh ginger add lift, while crushed slate and a gentle smoky note appear underneath. The palate is juicy and energetic, with citrus and stone fruit carried by mouthwatering acidity and a lightly textured middle. Grapefruit peel, preserved lemon and wet stone tighten the finish, leaving a clean, dry and subtly salty impression.

Prawn and pork dumplings would be excellent, alongside steamed snapper with ginger and spring onion, Thai fish cakes, salt and pepper squid or crispy tofu with sesame and chilli. Our pick is the squid, piping hot with plenty of lime and just enough chilli to get the next glass moving.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038.