2018 Immich Batterieberg Zeppwingert Grand Cru Cellar Release Riesling, Mosel

Deep, spicy nose with great apricot, then stunning concentration on the generous and texturally complex palate, right through the very long finish. This is very sophisticated, almost dry riesling with a unique style. Would greatly reward considerable further aging. Drinkable now, but better in 2022.

95 points James Suckling

Immich Batterieberg’s story stretches back to 1425 in Enkirch, but its modern reputation has been rebuilt around winemaker Gernot Kollmann and a collection of extraordinary old Mosel vineyards. Zeppwingert is among the most fascinating, a tiny, extremely steep parcel above the village that was historically recognised as one of Enkirch’s finest sites. This Cellar Release gives the 2018 the added benefit of years of maturation before leaving the estate, rather than asking you to do all the waiting yourself.

Zeppwingert’s old Riesling vines cling to precipitous terraces of weathered grey slate, producing tiny quantities of intensely flavoured fruit. The warm 2018 vintage delivered richness and concentration, particularly valuable in a site with such a strong mineral backbone. Time in bottle has now begun to soften the youthful edges and draw out the savoury, smoky complexity beneath the fruit, while the wine retains the acidity needed for further development.

Bright gold, with ripe yellow peach, preserved lemon and quince opening into apricot and candied grapefruit. Chamomile, dried flowers and ginger follow, with beeswax, crushed slate and a smoky, almost flinty character becoming increasingly prominent with air. The palate is concentrated and beautifully textured, combining mature orchard fruit with bright acidity and a firm mineral line. Preserved citrus, almond, ginger and smoky slate gather towards a long, dry finish with a faint saline bite.

Steamed coral trout with ginger and spring onion would be superb, alongside butter poached lobster, roast scallops with miso butter, Vietnamese turmeric fish with dill or cauliflower with tahini and preserved lemon. Our pick is the lobster, its sweetness and richness meeting the mature Riesling’s citrus, texture and smoky slate beautifully.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038+.