2023 Immich Batterieberg Zollturm Grand Cru Riesling, Mosel

11.5% Alc. Ungrafted vines more than 80 years old. High-density planting (6,000 vines/ha), 25 hl/ha yield. Aged in small oak barrels and large foudres

From 80+-year-old vines on gray slate and quartzite soils, the 2023 Zollturm is deep, intense and rich as well as enormously mineral and flinty on the saline nose. Full-bodied, intense and enormously mineral on the palate, this is an elegant, refined and saline but tight, intense and very complex, finely tannic and grippy Riesling with a long and promising, complex, crystalline and saline finish. There seems to be a bit more younger oak here than in the Ellergrub. 11.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in December 2024. Drink 2030-2060

96 points Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

There’s a mind-blowing tension between the enormous stone fruit character of this great dry Mosel riesling and its cool and dry core, around which ample leesy creaminess is entwined. Then comes the gigantic finish, which has a deep base of fine tannins over which a fabulously delicate richness is laid. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.

98 points James Suckling

Immich Batterieberg’s remarkable run of historic Enkirch vineyards continues with Zollturm, another glimpse into the Mosel before many of its great old sites slipped from wider attention. The estate dates to 1425, while today Gernot Kollmann is responsible for its revival and wonderfully individual dry Rieslings. His approach is deliberately hands off, allowing vineyard and vintage to speak rather than polishing away the character that makes these steep slate slopes so distinctive.

Zollturm takes its name from the old customs tower above Enkirch and comes from steep, terraced Riesling vines high over the Mosel. It is a tiny production wine and one of the more elusive bottles in the Immich Batterieberg cellar. The excellent 2023 vintage gives it beautifully ripe fruit, but this is not about simple richness. There is a lovely interplay between stone fruit, acidity and the savoury slate character that runs through the estate’s best wines.

Bright straw gold, opening with lime, white peach and yellow apple before grapefruit and apricot appear. Lemon verbena, chamomile and ginger add complexity, followed by crushed slate, flint and a faint smoky note. The palate is concentrated and finely textured, with ripe citrus and stone fruit cut by mouthwatering acidity. Preserved lemon and grapefruit peel become more savoury through the middle, while ginger, salt and smoky stone linger on the long, dry finish.

Chargrilled king prawns with chilli and lime would be terrific, alongside steamed coral trout with ginger, scallops with browned butter, Korean seafood pancakes or crispy eggplant with sesame and miso. Our pick is the seafood pancakes, crisp at the edges with prawns, squid, spring onion and a sharp dipping sauce.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2042+.