2023 Jaeger Defaix Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé Blancs, Burgundy

Diam. Rabourcé has traditionally been nicknamed ‘the Montrachet of Rully’ for the richness and power it delivers. It is a very steep site west of the village, above the highly regarded Cloux vineyard and just below the woods. The soils are mainly white limestone-rich clay. The Defaix vines are between 40 and 45 years old. Rabourcé is always one of Rully’s first vineyards to ripen, and Defaix’s 2023 is a superb example—a wine of impressive depth and power. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and was raised in used oak barrels.

A more floral width of aroma. Really wide, a more juicy style of wine that has an obvious minerality. Such width to this flavour. The accent of the barrel would have me waiting 2-3 years before drinking but this is a great Rully!!

Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report

Excellent density infiltrates the powerful, well-proportioned mouthfeel. Apple pie spice, cherimoya and quince create fireworks on the palate. Aged in tonneaux for up to 18 months, the suavely massaged acidity gives this nicely supporting peps.

 93 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Tim Atkin Burgundy Report

From the Côte Chalonnaise rather than the Côte d’Or, Rully has been quietly lifting its game, and the Defaix family bring serious Chablis know how to the table here. Jaeger Defaix is the Rully project of Didier and Sylvain Defaix, better known for their work in Chablis, and that DNA shows in the style, clean, precise, mineral driven Chardonnay shaped by limestone soils.

Rabourcé sits among Rully’s better Premier Cru sites, delivering a wine that balances generosity with structure. The aromatics are bright and inviting, white peach, pear and lemon zest, with a touch of grapefruit adding tension. There is a subtle floral lift and a gentle savoury note, almond, a hint of spice and a faint chalky edge that gives it definition.

On the palate it lands in that sweet spot between freshness and texture. Medium bodied with a smooth, lightly rounded feel, but carried by a line of acidity that keeps everything focused. Stone fruit and citrus sit at the core, with restrained oak adding shape rather than weight. The finish is clean and mineral, with a lightly savoury, lingering edge.

Winemaking here is thoughtful and measured, drawing on the Defaix family’s experience to preserve purity while building just enough texture through élevage.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with a bit of character. Think grilled calamari with lemon and herbs, prawn risotto with a touch of saffron, or a whole roast fish with fennel and olive oil. It also works beautifully with dishes like crab linguine, zucchini fritters or a simple roast chicken with thyme, where the wine’s freshness and subtle savoury notes keep everything lively.

Drinking beautifully now for its brightness and balance, it will continue to evolve over the next five to eight years, picking up more nutty complexity while holding its line.