2019 Giesen Clayvin Chardonnay, Wairau Valley

A magnificent rendition, showing white flesh stone fruit, lemon peel, nougat and roasted cashew aromas on the nose. The concentrated palate displays outstanding weight and persistency, combined with excellent focus and textured mouthfeel, finishing impressively long and refined. At its best: now to 2031. 

97 points Sam Kim Wine Orbit

The 13.4ha Clayvin vineyard sits on a north-facing hillside slope at the top of the Brancott Valley. It was established to Burgundian high density in 1993 by viticulturalist Mike Eaton. It is sheltered from southerly winds, with heavy clay soils that hold water through the dry summer months. Giesen purchased the vineyard in 2015 and it is now certified organic.

Whole-bunch pressed with the free-run juice settled and transferred to oak fermentation with a wild yeast starter. 1,000 litre German Fuder barrels are used for this wine instead of 225L barriques. The larger format means less oak influence per litre of wine, a warmer and slower fermentation, and more extended lees contact. Full malolactic was allowed, and the wine rested on lees for 11 months.

The result is texture and complexity built from within the wine rather than from the barrel. At six years old the 2019 is in a comfortable and rewarding place. The primary stone fruit of youth has softened and broadened, with toasted almond, Manuka honey and brioche complexity developing alongside it. The palate is rich and textural with a seam of citrus acidity keeping everything fresh and focused. Long, layered and composed.

Enjoy this with something nice: grilled lobster, crab bisque, a fine fish dish with a beurre blanc. Steamed abalone with ginger would also work nicely if you give it another year or two in the bottle.