2023 Jean Collet et fils Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru Organic, Burgundy

Now blended into tank, having been entirely vinified in wood. Mid lemon yellow. Perhaps the wood is a little more marked here. Good bright fruit in the middle with vibrant acidity but the wood is indeed less well integrated, for now. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Jul 2024.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

The Jean Collet et Fils Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru Organic is one of the domaine’s most refined and powerful wines, often regarded as rivalling Grand Cru quality. Domaine Jean Collet, founded in 1952 and now led by Romain Collet, has embraced organics and minimal intervention to highlight purity and terroir. Montée de Tonnerre is the jewel of Chablis’ premier crus, lying just next to the Grand Cru slope, with its southeast-facing exposure and classic Kimmeridgian limestone soils producing wines of depth, intensity and remarkable ageing potential.

The site combines the chalky minerality of Chablis with extra ripeness from its sunny exposure, giving both richness and tension. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with wild yeasts, with maturation taking place in a mix of stainless steel and older oak barrels to preserve precision while adding texture. Lees contact enhances creaminess and complexity without obscuring the wine’s racy line of acidity.

In the glass, it is pale gold with green reflections. Aromatically it shows citrus zest, white peach and green apple layered with acacia blossom, oyster shell, wet stone and a delicate touch of spice. The palate is concentrated and structured, with ripe orchard fruit, lemon curd and chalky minerality balanced by crisp acidity. Subtle lees richness brings a fine, textural mouthfeel, leading to a long, saline, almost Grand Cru-like finish.

Food pairings highlight its depth and elegance: lobster, scallops in saffron cream, Dover sole, or vegetarian dishes such as truffle risotto and roasted cauliflower with almonds. It has excellent cellaring potential, evolving gracefully over 10 to 15 years with notes of honey, hazelnut and brioche while maintaining its mineral drive.