2023 Domaine Jean Collet Butteaux Chablis 1er Cru Organic, Burgundy

The wine was kept in tank until after malolactic fermentation, and is now being aged in older barrels. Pale in colour, with a slightly exotic touch to the nose. Some liquorice notes behind, not quite the full central core of a great Butteaux, with fair length. Drink from 2026-2030. Tasted Jul 2024.

89-91 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

The Domaine Jean Collet Butteaux Chablis 1er Cru Organic is a structured, mineral-driven Chardonnay that captures the precision and intensity of one of Chablis’ most characterful premiers crus. Domaine Jean Collet, established in 1952 and now guided by Romain Collet, has embraced organic viticulture to highlight the transparency and individuality of each vineyard. Butteaux is part of the larger Montmains climat on the left bank of the Serein River, with deeper clay-limestone soils that tend to produce wines with more weight, savoury depth and ageing capacity.

The vineyard’s Kimmeridgian limestone, laced with fossilised seashells, brings the classic chalky salinity Chablis is famous for, while its cooler aspect ensures freshness and drive. Winemaking at Domaine Collet is deliberately low intervention: hand-harvested fruit, fermentation with native yeasts, and ageing in a combination of stainless steel and neutral oak, with time on lees to add subtle roundness and textural complexity without overshadowing the mineral core.

In the glass, the wine is pale gold with green highlights. The nose is taut and expressive, showing citrus zest, green apple and white peach, layered with acacia blossom, oyster shell and a hint of flint. On the palate it is precise and firm, with citrus and orchard fruit at the centre, carried by racy acidity and a chalky mineral backbone. Lees contact adds a delicate creaminess, leading to a long, savoury, saline finish.

Food pairings bring out its structure and finesse: oysters, grilled scallops, Dover sole, or vegetarian dishes such as asparagus risotto, goat’s cheese tart or roasted cauliflower. With its concentration and acidity, Butteaux ages beautifully for 8 to 12 years, developing honeyed, nutty and truffled complexity while retaining freshness.