2023 Jean-Paul et Charly Thevenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais

Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet Morgon Vieilles Vignes is a deeply expressive, soulful Beaujolais crafted from old-vine Gamay grown in the celebrated Morgon cru. The Thévenet family are part of the legendary “Gang of Four” who helped revive traditional winemaking in Beaujolais, championing organic farming, minimal intervention and the purity of terroir. This wine comes from vines over 70 years old, grown on granitic schist soils in the lieu-dit of Douby, on the border of Fleurie, lending it both Morgon’s structure and Fleurie’s finesse.

Harvest is done by hand, and vinification follows traditional semi-carbonic maceration in concrete vats using native yeasts. The wine is then aged in large, old foudres for several months before bottling without fining or filtration. This natural, low-sulphur approach results in a Morgon that is vivid, layered and full of life.

The nose is intensely aromatic, with wild strawberry, raspberry, dark cherry, violets, crushed granite and a faint hint of cured meat. On the palate, it’s medium bodied and textured, with supple tannins and juicy acidity carrying flavours of red and black fruit, baking spices, dried herbs and a savoury mineral core. It finishes long and lifted, with depth and balance that belie its unforced style.

Food pairing: perfect with duck breast, coq au vin, charcuterie, mushroom tart or roast chicken with herbs. Also great with grilled tuna, lentil salad or creamy washed rind cheeses.

Cellar potential: delicious now with a light chill, but will evolve beautifully over the next 8 to 10 years, gaining complexity, forest floor and spice while retaining its core of fruit and freshness.