2023 Lafarge-Vial Fleurie Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais

Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge are best known for their historic family domaine in Volnay, but in 2014 they crossed into Beaujolais and established Domaine Lafarge Vial with their daughter Clothilde. The attraction was old Gamay vines, granite soils and steep vineyards that could be worked with the same meticulous, biodynamic approach they use in Burgundy. Joie du Palais is one of the domaine’s tiny production Fleurie cuvées and shows just how serious Gamay can become without losing its charm.

The wine comes from old vines in Fleurie, where Gamay is rooted in the appellation’s decomposed pink granite. Fleurie is often described as the most perfumed and graceful of the Beaujolais crus, but Lafarge Vial gives it another dimension through careful farming and gentle winemaking. The 2023 combines beautifully ripe fruit with freshness and mineral tension, giving us Fleurie with delicacy, but certainly not fragility.

Luminous ruby crimson with wild raspberry, red cherry and strawberry followed by violet and peony. Blood orange, cracked pepper and subtle anise add lift, with black tea and crushed stone emerging underneath. The palate is silky and wonderfully energetic, with juicy red fruit carried by bright acidity and very fine tannins. Raspberry, cherry and citrus peel become increasingly savoury before a long, fragrant, mineral finish.

Tea smoked duck with shiitake mushrooms would play beautifully with its perfume, while grilled salmon with miso, mushroom dumplings, roast beetroot with goat’s cheese or charred eggplant with sesame would keep things lighter. Serve it slightly cool in a good Burgundy glass and give it some air. This is a long way from simple Beaujolais.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2036.