2023 Les Heritiers Du Comte Lafon Macon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four, Burgundy

Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four 2023 More lemon than lime in colour. A steely nose, only just finished fermenting and it is the style of the vineyard anyway. Then an extra generosity on the palate, more yellow in fruit profile, light peaches at the back. A little grenadine, but the steel takes the upper hand.

90-91 points Jasper Morris insideburgundy.com Drink: 2025-2028

The 2023 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four has a welldefined bouquet with fine mineralité, opening with red apples and a touch of tinned peach and becoming more floral. The palate is well balanced with a sapid entry, grapefruit and light lime cordial notes and a touch of white pepper on the finish. Lovely.

91 points Neal Martin vinous.com Drink: 2025-2033 

Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four is a beautifully focused and textural Chardonnay from one of the highest-altitude vineyards in the Mâconnais. This site, Clos du Four, sits on the slopes above the village of Milly-Lamartine and is farmed biodynamically by the team at Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. The vineyard’s limestone-rich soils and cooler microclimate bring freshness and minerality to the wine, while full ripeness adds depth and power.

Fermented with indigenous yeasts in a mix of large oak foudres and stainless steel, the wine is aged on fine lees for added texture and complexity. There is no new oak influence here — just clarity, precision and the quiet confidence of fruit grown in the right place and handled with care.

The nose is lifted and pure, showing white peach, citrus oil, crushed limestone and a touch of almond meal. The palate is medium bodied and layered, with a generous core of stone fruit and lemon curd balanced by taut acidity and a chalky mineral finish. It’s a wine that walks the line between richness and restraint, revealing more detail with air.

Food pairing: ideal with roast chicken, grilled prawns, creamy risotto, baked trout or a soft cheese like Brillat-Savarin. Also excellent with herbed pasta or a warm goat cheese salad.

Cellar potential: drinking well now but will reward 5 to 8 years of cellaring, gaining more savoury and nutty depth with time.