2023 Lethbridge Pinot Noir Biodynamic, Henty

Jack and Lois Doeven’s site in Henty was planted in the 1980s and significantly contributed to Seppelt’s sparkling programme for years. It’s a 40-hectare vineyard that lies on schist soils and is planted predominantly to Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Ray Nadeson has worked with the fruit from this revered vineyard for 20+ years and currently takes the entire Riesling and Pinot crop, as well as half the Gris. As such, Ray has a lot of input into the farming practices at the site, so yields are kept low.  

With the warming climate, certain parcels of Pinot Noir at the Doeven site can be earmarked for still wine―as a point of interest, the fruit for Lethbridge’s premium Nadeson Collis sparkling programme is also sourced from this site. The clone is of Swiss origin (Mariafield), with an open bunch structure, so it can ripen well in cooler climates. Ray says it’s structurally softer than MV6 and tends to be more high-toned and perfumed. The fruit is picked by hand and ferments in open-top vessels with a small portion of bunches. After a long, cool ferment (20 days) with only gentle cap work, the wine is pressed to barrel (20% new) for 11 months’ maturation. 

Ray captures the essence of this wine perfectly: “The Geelong Pinots are all about slapping the base, whereas this Henty wine is more like the snap of the snare drum.” It’s full of perfume, summer berries, brown spice and earth notes, with fleshy weight and a savoury finish—cool-climate Pinot Noir in fine form.  

Lethbridge Pinot Noir Biodynamic from Henty is a vibrant and expressive wine that reflects both the unique terroir of Henty in Victoria and Lethbridge’s commitment to biodynamic viticulture. Lethbridge Wines, known for its sustainable farming practices and minimal intervention approach, crafts this Pinot Noir to highlight the purity and character of the grape. The cool, maritime climate of Henty, with its long growing season, allows for slow ripening, resulting in wines with complexity, bright acidity, and elegant structure.

This Pinot Noir opens with aromas of red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, complemented by hints of wild herbs, earthiness, and a touch of spice. Subtle floral notes and a hint of minerality add depth, reflecting both the biodynamic practices and Henty’s unique soils. On the palate, it is medium-bodied and silky, with flavors of red berries, a hint of savory herbs, and fine-grained tannins. The vibrant acidity and balanced structure make for a refreshing and lengthy finish.

Ideal for pairing with dishes like roasted duck, mushroom risotto, or grilled salmon, this biodynamic Pinot Noir is versatile and food-friendly, perfect for enjoying with a range of flavors. Its structure and balance also make it suitable for cellaring, where it will develop further depth over time.