2023 Lowestoft Estate Chardonnay, Derwent Valley

Coal River Valley chardonnay, whole-bunch pressed into seasoned French oak (300L) for wild ferment before maturing for nine months in oak prior to blending and bottling. Pale straw, with vibrant aromas of grapefruit, white peach and nectarine cut with hints of struck-match complexity, spiced oatmeal, almond paste and riverstone. There's a lot going on here. It's like an orchestra; you can hear it as a whole but are able to delineate and pick out individual instruments, politely golf (orchestra?) clapping as you go, marvelling at the tautly stretched fruit canvas, umami-rich acid line and overall composition and drive. A cracker.

96 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Lowestoft Estate Chardonnay from Tasmania’s Derwent Valley is a refined, cool-climate white that showcases the precision and elegance the region is increasingly known for. Produced by Fogarty Wine Group and crafted with a focus on minimal intervention and vineyard expression, this Chardonnay is all about texture, purity and understated power. The Derwent Valley’s long growing season and maritime influence provide ideal conditions for developing complex flavours while retaining piercing acidity and natural freshness.

The fruit is hand-picked from select high-altitude vineyard sites, whole bunch pressed and fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barriques, a portion of which are new. Lees ageing and gentle bâtonnage add creamy depth and subtle savoury complexity without overwhelming the brightness and mineral focus of the wine.

Expect lifted aromas of white peach, lemon curd, struck flint, cashew and sea spray. The palate is taut and beautifully structured, with citrus and stone fruit at its core, framed by delicate oak spice and a fine, chalky line of acidity. It’s balanced, textural and quietly powerful, with a long finish that lingers with citrus oil and saline tension.

Food pairing: ideal with pan-roasted scallops, grilled spatchcock with lemon and thyme, cauliflower purée with hazelnuts, or fresh linguine with crab and herbs. Also a lovely match for firm cheeses or roasted chicken.

Cellar potential: drinking beautifully now but will evolve gracefully over 6 to 8 years, gaining savoury complexity and nutty, toasty character.