2024 Pooley Butchers Hill Chardonnay, Coal River Valley

Pooley Butcher’s Hill Chardonnay from the Coal River Valley is one of Tasmania’s most refined and site-expressive Chardonnays, crafted by one of the state's leading family-run wineries. The Pooley family, now in its third generation, has built a reputation for producing elegant, detailed wines with a strong sense of place, and the Butcher’s Hill site is at the heart of that story.

Planted in 2007, the Butcher’s Hill vineyard sits atop a steep, north-facing slope just outside the historic village of Richmond. The site’s ancient sandstone soils with seams of dolerite lend structure and mineral intensity, while the cool maritime climate of the Coal River Valley ensures slow, steady ripening and pristine natural acidity. The vineyard is farmed with a focus on soil health and sustainability, and each block is managed separately to capture its individual character.

Winemaking is overseen by Anna Pooley and Justin Bubb, a husband-and-wife team who bring a delicate hand and European sensibility to Tasmanian terroir. The fruit is handpicked and whole-bunch pressed directly to French oak barrels, around 25 to 30 percent of which are new. Fermentation is wild, with extended time on lees and minimal stirring to build texture without obscuring purity. Malolactic fermentation is allowed selectively, depending on the season’s balance.

In the glass, the Butcher’s Hill Chardonnay offers a layered bouquet of white peach, lemon curd, grilled almond, flint and sea spray. The palate is taut and focused, with racy acidity and a crystalline line of citrus and crushed stone. There’s a savoury edge and creamy mid-palate depth, finishing with length, precision and a chalky lick of minerality that speaks directly of its sandstone origins.

Pair it with grilled abalone, butter-poached chicken with tarragon, or charred broccolini with miso and sesame. It’s drinking beautifully now but will evolve gracefully over 8 to 10 years.