2023 Luís Seabra Granito Cru Alvarinho, Portugal

Impressive, with closed and austere aromas of flint. The palate is chiseled, medium- to full-bodied, incisive and textural, with mineral-driven phenolic tension. It slowly unfolds in the glass, gaining depth and complexity. Sourced from vines planted on granite in Melgaco, fermented and aged in foudres with full malolactic fermentation, which is unusual for the region. Great now, but will improve with age. Drink or hold.

96 points James Suckling

From the granitic soils of northern Portugal, Luís Seabra’s Granito Cru Alvarinho is a beautifully precise expression of both grape and place. Seabra, one of the Douro’s most thoughtful modern winemakers, has built his reputation on seeking out exceptional sites and letting them speak with minimal interference. While best known for his Douro reds, his whites from higher altitude, granite rich vineyards show the same philosophy through a different lens.

Sourced from vineyards influenced by the Atlantic and rooted in granite rather than schist, this is Alvarinho with tension and clarity. The cooler conditions and poor, well drained soils naturally limit yields, concentrating flavour while preserving that signature freshness.

Pale straw with a green shimmer, the aromatics are finely detailed rather than overt. Lime zest, green apple and grapefruit lead, followed by white flowers, a touch of saline and a distinct mineral note that feels almost stony. There is a quiet intensity here that builds with air.

The palate is taut and focused, citrus and orchard fruits carried along a line of bright, mouthwatering acidity. There is a subtle texture that gives shape, but the overall feel is one of precision and drive. A saline, mineral edge lingers through the finish, giving length and a refreshing, almost electric close.

This style is made for clean, fresh food. Oysters, grilled fish, or prawns with lemon and olive oil all work beautifully. It also pairs effortlessly with lighter dishes that carry herbs or a touch of spice, where the acidity lifts and refreshes.

Drinking beautifully now, though it will evolve over five to eight years, gaining more complexity and a slightly waxy, savoury edge.

There is a purity here that feels almost elemental, a wine shaped by stone, sea air and a winemaker intent on capturing both with clarity and restraint.