2023 Maison C. Thiriet Bourgogne Aligoté Du Jardin, Burgundy

Mid yellow, but brilliant and with energy. A perfect Aligoté nose, with harmony on the palate, a little waxy note and a slight youthful bitterness which does not at all interfere with the harmony. Impeccable.

90 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Aligoté has been having a quiet renaissance in Burgundy, and few are riding that wave with as much intent as Maison C. Thiriet. Guillaume Thiriet, working alongside his partner Baptiste, has built a reputation for small production, site focused wines that feel both thoughtful and alive. Their approach leans toward minimal intervention, letting the vineyard speak, and Du Jardin is a perfect snapshot of what Aligoté can do in the right hands.

Sourced from carefully tended parcels, this is all about freshness and energy. Citrus leads the charge, lemon zest and green apple, with a subtle lift of white flowers and a faint herbal edge that adds intrigue. There is a lovely mineral thread running underneath, more chalky than overt, giving the wine its shape.

The palate is bright and tightly wound, with crisp acidity driving everything forward. It feels lean but not thin, with just enough texture to soften the edges. Flavours stay in that citrus and orchard fruit spectrum before finishing clean, dry and quietly persistent with a gentle saline note.

This is made for simple, well chosen food. Fresh oysters, sardines on toast, or a classic gougère all make perfect sense. It also works beautifully with light salads, goat’s cheese or even a plate of charcuterie where the acidity cuts through and refreshes.

Best enjoyed young to capture that vibrancy, though a couple of years in bottle will bring a touch more roundness and subtle savoury detail.