2023 Marc Bredif Chinon, Loire Valley

Marc Brédif is one of the Loire Valley’s historic houses, founded in 1893 at Rochecorbon and acquired by Baron Patrick de Ladoucette in 1980. Although particularly famous for Vouvray and its extraordinary library of old Chenin Blanc, the house also works with Cabernet Franc from Chinon. It is a lovely counterpoint to all that Chenin, showing the fragrant, savoury side of one of the Loire’s great red varieties.

Chinon sits along the Vienne River, where Cabernet Franc grows across gravel, sand, clay and limestone influenced soils. The variety thrives in the Loire’s relatively cool climate, producing reds with freshness and perfume rather than sheer weight. The 2023 has a youthful, juicy character, with plenty of red fruit and the subtle leafy, earthy notes that make good Chinon immediately recognisable.

Bright ruby crimson, with red cherry, raspberry and redcurrant followed by violet and a little plum. Graphite, cracked pepper and dried herbs sit underneath, joined by tobacco leaf and a subtle earthy note. The palate is medium bodied and lively, with juicy red fruit, bright acidity and fine, lightly grippy tannins. Cherry, pepper and graphite carry through a fresh, savoury finish.

Duck with lentils and roasted shallots fits beautifully, while grilled tuna with peppers, mushroom tart, pork with sage or smoky eggplant with white beans all give Cabernet Franc plenty to work with. Slightly cool rather than warm is the way to serve it, especially if seafood is involved.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.