2025 Christian Salmon Sancerre AC, Loire Valley

Christian Salmon is based in Bué, one of the most respected villages in Sancerre, where the family has grown vines for generations. Today the domaine is run by Christian’s sons, who continue the family’s quietly traditional approach to Sauvignon Blanc. There is nothing flashy here, just beautifully handled fruit, distinctive soils and the sort of crisp, mineral Sancerre that makes it very easy to understand why the appellation became famous.

Bué’s rolling vineyards are particularly rich in limestone, giving Sauvignon Blanc its combination of citrus, floral lift and chalky tension. The 2025 has plenty of youthful energy, with bright fruit and mouthwatering acidity at the centre. Rather than pushing towards tropical ripeness, the style stays firmly in the Loire camp, with citrus, herbs and mineral character leading the way.

Very pale straw with green highlights, the bouquet opens with grapefruit, lemon zest and green apple, followed by white peach, elderflower and fresh fennel. Crushed chalk, gooseberry and a subtle leafy note add complexity. The palate is crisp and finely shaped, with citrus and green pear running through a lightly textured middle. Grapefruit pith and chalk provide grip before a dry, saline finish of lemon, herbs and crushed stone.

Fresh oysters with lemon are almost impossible to resist here, alongside goat’s cheese and zucchini tart, kingfish crudo with finger lime, salt and pepper squid or grilled prawns with fresh herbs. Our pick is the kingfish. Silky fish, citrus and a little sea salt against young Sancerre’s grapefruit and chalky bite is beautifully simple.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.