2023 Marquis d'Angerville Clos des Ducs Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy

Elegant and aristocratic, the Clos des Ducs from d'Angerville is a bit restrained initially but opens up with pomegranate and blackberry fruit aromas and flavours on the palate. The wine is not astringent, but one senses the massive structure and impressive length at first taste. Because of the stony limestone and white marl soils in this 2.15ha holding at the top of the premier cru slope, this complex wine will take time to unwind, but it will undoubtedly be worth the wait.

96 points Charles Curtis MW 

Bright mid purple. Immediate distinction and discretion, impeccably balanced. Alpine strawberry, finesse with intensity, picked at impeccable ripeness, the last red to be picked, on 9th September, but it has held out thanks to underground springs. Everything exactly where anybody would want it and stays in the mouth for so long. Drink from 2033-2045. Tasted Nov 2024 

94-96 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Few vineyards in Volnay command the reverence of Clos des Ducs, the historic monopole of Domaine Marquis d'Angerville and one of Burgundy's most distinguished Premier Crus. The d'Angerville family has been associated with this remarkable site for generations, with the late Jacques d'Angerville playing a pivotal role in establishing the domaine's international reputation. Today, Guillaume d'Angerville continues that legacy, producing Pinot Noir of extraordinary purity, finesse and ageing potential. Clos des Ducs is the estate's crowning achievement, a wine that combines the perfume and delicacy of Volnay with a depth and structure that can rival many Grand Crus.

The walled Clos des Ducs vineyard occupies a prized position above the village of Volnay, its limestone rich soils and favourable exposure producing Pinot Noir of remarkable concentration and mineral definition. The domaine has farmed biodynamically for many years, with careful vineyard management and restrained winemaking allowing the site's character to remain central. The 2023 vintage produced beautifully ripe fruit with generous aromatics and appealing freshness. In Clos des Ducs, that translates into a wine of exceptional balance, where fine tannins, vibrant acidity and remarkable depth promise decades of development.

Brilliant ruby red with a luminous garnet edge. Wild cherry, ripe raspberry and redcurrant mingle with violet, rose petal and a hint of orange peel. Notes of sandalwood, subtle spice, forest floor and crushed limestone emerge with air. The palate is beautifully concentrated yet remarkably graceful, with pure red fruit framed by finely sculpted tannins and lively acidity. There is a wonderful mineral tension beneath the fruit, while savoury herbs, delicate earthy notes and a touch of liquorice contribute complexity. The finish is exceptionally long and fragrant, leaving lingering cherry, floral spice and chalky mineral detail. A magnificent expression of Volnay, combining quiet power with extraordinary elegance.

Wild mushroom pappardelle, porcini risotto or roasted beetroot with lentils and aged Comté would all complement its earthy, savoury character. Duck breast with cherries, roast quail or a beautifully prepared rabbit dish would also suit its delicate structure. If opening young, decant gently and allow plenty of time for the aromas to unfold, although this is very much a wine that deserves a place in the cellar.

Cellaring: Drink 2030 to 2050+. The exceptional structure, freshness and concentration of Clos des Ducs suggest outstanding long term ageing potential.