2023 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, Burgundy

The 2023 Volnay Frémiets 1er Cru has a taut and fresher nose than the Clos des Angles, with touches of oyster shell filtering through the bright red fruit. The palate is ripe on entry, silky smooth in texture, and this displays fine delineation. There is more grip and backbone here with a sapid, peppery finish that lingers. This has a sensuality that I’m sure will be captured once in bottle.

92-94 points Neal Martin Vinous

Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is one of the defining estates of Volnay, with a family history in the village stretching back more than two centuries. Jacques d’Angerville was a pivotal figure in Burgundy, among the early growers to bottle his own wines rather than sell through négociants. His son Guillaume has led the domaine since 2003, preserving that traditional foundation while refining the viticulture and cellar work. Taillepieds is one of the great bottles here and a beautiful expression of Volnay at its most mineral and structured.

The Premier Cru sits high on the slope, south of the village, on steep limestone rich soils scattered with stones. Its name is generally associated with the sharp rocks that could cut the feet of vineyard workers. Compared with some of Volnay’s more immediately seductive sites, Taillepieds tends to be firmer, cooler and more architectural when young. The 2023 vintage adds generous fruit and perfume without taking away that distinctive mineral backbone.

Clear ruby with red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, followed by violet and peony. Blood orange brings brightness, while clove, black tea and a touch of forest floor begin to emerge with air. The palate is beautifully proportioned, with pure red fruit carried by fine, persistent tannins and fresh acidity. Cherry and raspberry narrow towards citrus peel, subtle spice and crushed limestone, leaving a long, savoury finish that suggests considerably more complexity ahead.

Duck breast with cherries and roasted beetroot would suit its combination of fruit and earthiness beautifully. Porcini with buttered pappardelle, roast quail with lentils or mushroom and Comté pithivier would be equally persuasive. It deserves a large Burgundy glass and, if opened young, plenty of time to stretch its legs. Cellaring: Drink from 2029 to 2048+.