2023 Mas de Libian Cotes du RhOne Rouge Bout d’Zan, Rhone Valley

Biodynamic. This gem has become one of the smartest buys. It’s drawn from 40-year-old biodynamically managed vines rooted in a range of Mas de Libian’s highland Ardèche soils: some galets roulés (rolled alluvial ‘pudding stones’), some sandy clay and some lower-lying parcels on limestone soils. Give or take a few bunches, the blend is 75% Grenache with 25% Syrah. The varieties co-ferment—Hélène’s father once told her, “The earlier you consummate the marriage, the better the relationship!”—and raised in a mix of Stockinger foudre and cement vats. Thibon included some ripe Syrah stems in this year's ferment to add freshness and lift.

Bout d’Zan is always packed with flavour and tongue-rolling texture offset by wonderful energy, poppy-edged freshness and high-country finesse. This release is particularly easy to love: the silky waves of liquorice-spiked plum skin and blueberry fruit, the creamy core woven with savoury minerals and finely-spun tannin and the energetic charcoal and bramble lift on the finish. It’s a beauty spot on the cheek of the Southern Rhône.