2023 Mayford Ovens Crossing Red Blend, Alpine Valley

A blend of 40/40/20% tempranillo/cabernet sauvignon/malbec. Cold soaked, natural yeasts, fermented separately, blended to French barriques for the first 12 months, then older oak for 11 months. A wine only released in 'exceptional years'. The winemaker builds layers of flavour and texture in her wines, revealing an old-school attention to detail. First impression is a wine smooth and elegant; second impression, you start to see the minutiae: blackstrap licorice, high spice notes, black cherry, blueberry, bay leaf, dark chocolate, dried herbs, pepper and amaro bitters. Three distinct grapes tied beautifully to a blended, fine-tannined whole. This is difficult winemaking territory, done well.

95 points Jeni Port Halliday Wine Companion August 2026

Mayford is the tiny Alpine Valleys estate of Eleana Anderson and Bryan Nicholson, perched high above Porepunkah in north east Victoria. Their wines have developed a loyal following because they taste so distinctly of this isolated mountain site rather than following any broader regional formula. Ovens Crossing is their red blend, and it captures the more fragrant, savoury side of the estate with the same small scale attention that defines the Mayford range.

The vineyard sits around 500 metres above sea level, where cool nights and granitic soils help preserve freshness despite the warm summer days. The 2023 season was cooler and slower ripening, particularly well suited to producing a red with perfume and energy rather than excessive weight. Ovens Crossing has an appealing rusticity to it, but there is nothing clumsy about the structure.

Deep ruby with a bright crimson edge, the bouquet opens with wild raspberry, dark cherry and red plum, followed by violet, cracked pepper and dried thyme. Liquorice, fennel seed, black olive and a touch of smoky earth appear underneath. The palate is medium bodied and juicy, with red and dark fruits carried by fresh acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Pepper, herbs and earthy spice build through the middle before a savoury, persistent finish.

Lamb skewers with cumin and yoghurt would be excellent here, alongside char siu pork, grilled eggplant with harissa, chicken yakitori or a mushroom and Taleggio pizza. Our pick is the lamb skewers. Smoke, cumin and juicy lamb alongside the wine’s peppery fruit and mountain freshness sounds like a very good reason to light the barbecue.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.