2023 Murdoch Hill Artisan Series Landau Syrah, Adelaide Hills

Forever taken aback by the perfume of this wine. Boysenberry, red plum, crushed gravel, roses closed tight, and there's reservation and tension here. Peppery, sure, but distinctively pink, all rosy and floral. The tannins are fine, powdery and dispersed, but sure-footed. There's an exuberance in its youth that might make this exasperatingly hard to cellar, for the want to enjoy it now. An elegant and balanced release despite the cold, late and challenging '23 vintage.

94 points Katrina Butler winecompanion.com.au

Murdoch Hill Artisan Series Landau Syrah is a cool climate Syrah with a distinctive Adelaide Hills signature—bright, perfumed and beautifully textured. Sourced from select high-altitude sites around Oakbank and Lenswood, this wine reflects the elevation and long, even ripening of the Hills, where Syrah ripens with finesse rather than brute power.

Crafted by Michael Downer, one of Australia’s rising stars in modern winemaking, Landau is part of the limited-release Artisan Series, where site expression and winemaking freedom come to the fore. The fruit is largely whole bunch fermented with wild yeasts, aged in old French oak puncheons, and bottled with minimal handling. The result is Syrah in its most elegant and expressive form.

The nose is lifted with aromas of dark cherry, blackcurrant, lavender, and fresh pepper, with subtle hints of clove and charcuterie. The palate is silky and savoury, balancing juicy red and black fruits with graphite-like tannins and a cool, sappy edge that speaks to the use of whole bunches. It’s structured yet ethereal, more Northern Rhône in spirit than Barossa blockbuster.

Food pairings include chargrilled lamb cutlets with rosemary and black garlic, duck with star anise and cherry glaze, or roasted beetroot with goat cheese and walnut. Aged Gruyère or comté also pair well. Drink now for its aromatic freshness or cellar for 8 to 10 years to see its savoury core deepen.