2023 Paul Chavy Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy

Paul Chavy works out of Meursault, part of a long Burgundian lineage, but his style feels very much his own, clean, precise and quietly confident. Corton Charlemagne is a serious step up in scale, coming from the exposed limestone slopes of the Corton hill where altitude and aspect bring both power and tension. It is one of Burgundy’s great white Grand Crus, capable of combining richness with a driving mineral backbone.

The 2023 shows that duality from the first pour. There is citrus oil, lemon zest and white peach, layered with crushed rock, almond and a subtle hint of spice from carefully handled oak. It feels broad at first, then tightens through the palate, the acidity pulling everything into line and giving it real direction. There is depth and weight here, but it never feels heavy, instead carrying a long, saline finish that lingers with quiet authority.

This is built for seafood with substance. Lobster roasted with herbs and butter, scallops with a light saffron sauce, or a beautifully cooked turbot would all sit comfortably alongside it. It also handles richer poultry dishes, especially where there is a touch of earthiness from mushrooms or a gentle cream based sauce.

This is not one to rush. It will show well with a bit of air now, but ten to twenty years will see it evolve into something far more complex, with layered nutty, honeyed notes sitting over that powerful mineral core.