2023 Paul Chavy Chassagne 1er Cru Morgeot, Burgundy

Paul Chavy continues a long Meursault lineage, but his wines carry a distinctly modern feel, precise, finely judged and very much about site. His parcels in Chassagne Montrachet’s Morgeot sit on deeper clay and limestone soils, a part of the appellation known for producing wines with a little more breadth and generosity, though in his hands that richness is always held in check.

The 2023 opens with ripe citrus, white peach and a touch of pear, followed by toasted almond, subtle spice and a gentle hint of oak that sits neatly in the background. There’s a roundness through the mid palate that gives it immediate appeal, but it quickly tightens, the acidity bringing shape and drive. It feels layered without being heavy, finishing long with a soft, mineral edge that keeps everything balanced.

This is a great fit for seafood that carries a bit of weight. Think butter poached lobster, scallops with a light brown butter sauce, or even a crab dish with a touch of spice. It also moves comfortably into poultry, especially roast chicken with mushrooms or a lightly creamy sauce.

There’s plenty to enjoy now with some air, but it will reward a bit of patience. Over the next 8 to 12 years it should build more savoury depth and that classic nutty Chassagne character.