2023 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin à Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais

The Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin à Vent Les Trois Roches is a stunning cru Beaujolais that shows just how serious and age-worthy Gamay can be when grown in the right place. Pierre-Marie Chermette is widely regarded as one of the most talented and traditional winemakers in Beaujolais, championing low yields, hand harvesting, minimal intervention, and wild yeast fermentations. His wines are often described as “Burgundian Gamay” because of their precision, depth and ability to age gracefully.

The Les Trois Roches vineyard takes its name from its trio of soil types: pink granite, manganese-rich rock, and quartz. These poor, rocky soils naturally limit vine vigour and concentrate flavours, producing Gamay with structure, minerality and complexity. Moulin à Vent itself is known as the “King of Beaujolais” for producing the region’s most powerful, long-lived wines, and this cuvée is one of the finest examples.

In the glass, the wine is deep ruby with purple hues. The nose is aromatic and layered, with ripe black cherry, blackberry and raspberry alongside violet, peony, spice and a hint of graphite. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, with silky tannins and flavours of dark berries, plum, liquorice and earthy mineral notes. The finish is long, savoury and elegant, with both power and finesse. This is Gamay that can rival many fine Burgundies in complexity.

Food pairings highlight its versatility: coq au vin, duck breast with cherries, roast pork with herbs, or mushroom risotto. It is also superb with charcuterie and semi-hard cheeses such as Comté or Tomme de Savoie. With 10 to 15 years of cellaring potential, it evolves into something even more refined, gaining notes of truffle, leather and dried flowers.

Critics consistently highlight Les Trois Roches as one of Chermette’s finest wines. It has been described as “serious Gamay with Burgundian polish,” often earning scores in the low to mid-90s. Collectors love it for its combination of value, authenticity and ageing potential, making it one of the best buys in cru Beaujolais.