2023 Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir Organic, Mount Macedon

This is the only pinot noir from 2023 from POCW. About a third is whole bunch across all the clones and sites on the estate vineyard. The wine ends up in Stockinger barrels for 21 months. Serious approach. A very good wine. Very. Fine, tight, tense, succulent, dark cherry, sour cherry, fennel, blood orange, white pepper, game meat – a lot on, you could keep listing detail but the idea is this is complex, compelling, with everything woven beautifully together. Fruit feels bright and sweet yet just on the cusp, and so fresh, the persistence of all that superb – a touch overtly fruity for those who seek that. An elegance but with a kink of funk and interest. The x-factor we seek. And the personality of place. Stellar.

95 points Mike Bennie thewinefront.com.au

Place of Changing Winds Between Two Mountains Pinot Noir Organic comes from the rugged slopes of Mount Macedon, one of the coolest and most marginal viticultural regions in Australia. This estate, founded by wine writer and importer Robert Walters, has quickly established itself as one of the most exciting new-wave producers, with a philosophy rooted in organics, biodynamics, and minimal intervention. Walters’ vision is to craft wines that express site above all else, drawing inspiration from Burgundy’s most sensitive growers while staying true to Macedon’s singular terroir.

Between Two Mountains is named for the vineyards’ dramatic setting, nestled between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook. The soils here are a mosaic of ancient quartz, shale, and sandstone, and the altitude ensures long, cool ripening. These conditions give the Pinot Noir remarkable tension and perfume, but yields are naturally tiny, with meticulous vineyard work ensuring fruit of outstanding purity.

In the glass, the wine reveals lifted aromas of wild strawberry, sour cherry, and redcurrant, layered with rose petals, damp earth, and subtle spice. The palate is fine-boned and energetic, with beautifully integrated acidity carrying flavours of cranberry, pomegranate, and mineral salts. Silky tannins and a savoury edge of forest floor and tea leaf provide structure, while the finish is long and ethereal. It is a style that feels both delicate and powerful, showcasing the finesse that Macedon can achieve when treated with patience and respect.

Food pairings lean toward dishes that mirror its elegance and lift: roast quail with thyme, seared tuna with soy and sesame, or wild mushroom risotto. Its freshness and balance also make it ideal with charcuterie and aged washed-rind cheeses. Although immediately captivating, this Pinot Noir will reward cellaring over 8 to 12 years, gaining further depth, spice, and complexity.