2023 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Marsanne Roussanne, Bendigo

This sits at medium weight, slippery and glossy in texture, quietly concentrated with light honeyed elements in just-ripe nectarine, just-ripe peach, a tangerine element, faint vanilla cream notes and a sprinkle of cinnamon spice. It feels like the bandwidth delivers complexity, layers to flavour, appeal in the fog of sweeter fruit spectrum characters, a bit of pawpaw bitter-sweet in the mix overall too. Captures attention, delivers depth, feels composed. Class act.

94 points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au

The Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Marsanne Roussanne from Bendigo is a beautifully textured Rhône-inspired white, crafted from organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards on Harcourt’s granitic soils. Robert Walters and his team at Place of Changing Winds are dedicated to high-density planting and minimal intervention winemaking, producing wines that focus on purity, minerality and site expression. This Marsanne Roussanne blend reflects both varieties in harmony: Marsanne bringing structure and savoury depth, while Roussanne contributes perfume, freshness and elegance.

In the glass it is pale gold with green highlights. The bouquet is fragrant and layered, showing pear, quince and citrus blossom interwoven with honeysuckle, almond, stone fruit and a flinty mineral note. On the palate it is medium-bodied and textural, with ripe orchard and stone fruits supported by lively acidity and a fine chalky grip. Gentle phenolics give shape and length, while the finish is long, savoury and refreshingly precise.

Food pairings highlight its aromatic, layered style: roast chicken with herbs, grilled swordfish with lemon, pork with apple and fennel, or vegetarian dishes like pumpkin risotto or baked cauliflower gratin. It also pairs beautifully with semi-hard cheeses such as Comté or Gruyère. With 8 to 10 years of cellaring potential, the wine will develop honeyed, nutty and spicy complexity while retaining its mineral backbone.