2023 Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah Organic, Bendigo

If you judged by colour you’d be at ten out of ten – ruby and purple with shimmering edges. Hello. The wine feels similar, red crunch, purple depth, mulberry and pomegranate with tart cherry and sweet spices with some distinct slate-like mineral quality in there too. Fine, very fine actually, grippy, granitic tannins ripple through the wine, tightening on a sluice of joyous fruit character with some brown spices speckled through. From the lighter year, this works very well, elegant, fine boned, a pinosity almost, though distinctly syrah of course too. Super star.

94 points Mike Bennie winefront.com.au

The Place of Changing Winds Harcourt Syrah Organic from Bendigo is a strikingly pure and detailed expression of Syrah, sourced from the granite soils of Harcourt in Central Victoria. Place of Changing Winds, led by Robert Walters, is known for its meticulous organic and biodynamic vineyard practices, with a philosophy rooted in high-density planting and minimal intervention in the winery. The Harcourt release captures the cooler, more mineral edge of this granite-dominated site, offering a Syrah that leans towards elegance and perfume rather than sheer power.

In the glass it shows a deep but translucent ruby hue. The bouquet is fragrant and lifted, with aromas of blackberry, mulberry and dark cherry intertwined with violet, black pepper, spice and a subtle flinty minerality. On the palate it is medium-bodied and finely structured, with vibrant dark fruits carried by taut acidity and powdery tannins. Savoury layers of olive tapenade, dried herbs and graphite emerge with air, leading to a long, graceful finish that reflects both the granitic soils and the cool-climate expression of Harcourt.

Food pairings suit its aromatic and savoury profile: roast lamb with garlic and thyme, duck breast with cherry glaze, venison with juniper, or earthy vegetarian dishes such as mushroom ragù or roasted beetroot with herbs. Semi-hard cheeses like Comté or Manchego also pair well. With 10 to 12 years of cellaring potential, the wine will evolve into a more complex, savoury and silky expression, gaining truffle and dried spice nuances while retaining its mineral core.