2023 Planeta Etna Rosso Nerello Mascalese, Sicily

The 2023 Etna Rosso is rosy and perfumed with citrus-tinged cherry defining its bouquet. This is a lifted and juicy effort with ripe red berry fruits and an air of violet pastille that swirls throughout. Tantalizing acidity maintains amazing freshness as the 2023 concludes with gentle tension.

92 points Eric Guido, Vinous

Planeta’s arrival on Etna added another fascinating chapter to one of Sicily’s most important wine families. After establishing estates across the island, the family headed to the mountain in 2008, settling around Sciaranuova near Passopisciaro on Etna’s northern slopes. Here the focus is firmly on the volcanic landscape and its native grapes, with Nerello Mascalese producing reds of perfume and transparency rather than the richer style often associated with Sicily.

Altitude is crucial. Cool nights and significant temperature shifts slow the ripening of Nerello Mascalese, while Etna’s black lava soils contribute the savoury, smoky character that makes these wines so distinctive. The 2023 has lovely aromatic lift and red fruit purity, with fine tannins and plenty of volcanic bite underneath. There is a slightly wild mountain character here that is very much part of the attraction.

Light ruby garnet, with sour cherry, wild strawberry and redcurrant joined by dried rose and blood orange. Fennel, black tea and anise follow, with hints of smoke and crushed volcanic rock appearing as it opens. The palate is medium bodied and energetic, combining juicy cherry and cranberry with lively acidity and fine, dusty tannins. Orange peel and savoury spice lead into a dry, gently smoky finish.

Chargrilled swordfish with capers and lemon would be superb, alongside tuna with sesame and blood orange, pork and fennel meatballs, mushroom arancini or smoky eggplant with tomato and ricotta salata. Our pick is the swordfish. Nerello Mascalese has that rare ability to work with a substantial piece of fish without bullying it.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.