2023 Pooles Rock Premiere Chardonnay, Hunter Valley

A beautiful chardonnay with a refined palate that displays harmony, detail, brightness and impressive length. Good mid-palate intensity with juicy nectarines and lemony freshness enhanced by raw cashew and flinty notes. This complex wine has been made with grace and insight, respecting the inherent characteristics of the fruit. Made from carefully selected parcels across the valley, including the winery's Soldier Settler vineyard in Broke-Fordwich. Whole-bunch pressed fruit was fermented in French barrels (40% new) with battonage over eight months. Selected barrels underwent mlf to enhance palate richness and softness. Outstanding for the price.

96 points Special Value Toni Paterson MW winecompanion.com.au

Pooles Rock Premiere Chardonnay is a standout expression of modern Hunter Valley winemaking—layered, complex, and built with precision. It comes from the Agnew Wines portfolio, which includes Cockfighter’s Ghost and Audrey Wilkinson, and is crafted under the guidance of Jeff Byrne, a seasoned and award-winning winemaker who has brought renewed focus and elegance to Pooles Rock’s top-tier offerings. With decades of experience in the Hunter and a deep understanding of its nuances, Jeff consistently delivers wines that balance texture and structure while remaining true to place.

The fruit for the Premiere Chardonnay is sourced from select mature vineyard blocks in the Hunter Valley, where the region’s warm climate is moderated by ocean breezes and rich volcanic soils. Jeff Byrne works closely with vineyard crews to manage canopy and yields for optimal ripening, hand harvesting the fruit early in the morning to preserve freshness and acid line.

In the winery, Byrne uses whole-bunch pressing followed by wild yeast fermentation in French oak barriques, a portion of which are new. He allows full or partial malolactic fermentation depending on the vintage, giving the wine a creamy texture while retaining a vibrant backbone. Lees stirring over several months adds further complexity and mid-palate weight. Jeff’s style avoids heaviness—he’s aiming for balance, length, and integration of fruit and oak, and it shows in every glass.

On the nose, expect white peach, grilled lemon, cashew and flint, underpinned by subtle matchstick, oatmeal and honeysuckle. The palate is concentrated but focused, with layers of stone fruit, citrus curd and roasted nuts sitting on a line of cool-climate acidity and minerality. The oak is finely woven, giving spice and structure without dulling the fruit's brightness.

This Chardonnay is beautiful with roasted spatchcock, lobster and saffron butter, pumpkin gnocchi with sage, or even a buttery leek tart. While elegant now, it will cellar gracefully for up to ten years, developing notes of hazelnut, honey and toasted brioche.

Jeff Byrne’s craftsmanship and Pooles Rock’s exceptional fruit combine to create one of the Hunter’s most polished and age-worthy Chardonnays. It captures the richness the region can deliver while staying fresh, composed and deeply satisfying.