2023 Rippon Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago

An intriguing nose with sweet aromas of heather and pea pod lifted above manuka honey and progressively deeper, lees-enriched, savoury layers of baking spice and pastry before a bass note of oyster shell emerges. The palate is equally complex, though the mineral and manuka are at the fore, tapering down to a pithy, long and concentrated grapefruit and white peach flavours before the honeyed and butterscotch notes reassert themselves on the chalky, dry finish. A symphony of a wine which trascends the variety 14 Feb 2025 Drink 2025–2028

94 points Stephen Wong MW therealreview.com

Rippon Sauvignon Blanc from Central Otago is one of New Zealand’s most distinctive and refined examples of the variety, far removed from the exuberant tropical styles that dominate elsewhere. Grown on the breathtaking slopes overlooking Lake Wanaka, this wine speaks of both altitude and place, shaped by the purity of the mountain air and the mineral backbone of the region’s ancient soils. Rippon is a family estate led by Nick Mills, who continues the pioneering work of his parents, Rolfe and Lois Mills. The family has farmed the property biodynamically for decades, creating wines that are honest reflections of their remarkable site rather than the hand of the winemaker.

The vines grow on schist and glacial moraine soils, rich in minerals and low in fertility, which naturally limit yields and produce fruit of exceptional intensity. The cool climate of Central Otago, moderated by Lake Wanaka, ensures slow ripening and vibrant natural acidity. The grapes are hand picked and whole bunch pressed, with fermentation carried out using indigenous yeasts. A portion of the wine is matured in old oak to build texture and complexity, while the rest remains in stainless steel to retain freshness and aromatic clarity. The result is a Sauvignon Blanc that balances richness and precision in perfect harmony.

In the glass it shows a pale straw colour with subtle green highlights. The nose is elegant and layered, offering aromas of lemon zest, white peach, gooseberry and alpine herbs, underpinned by hints of crushed stone and flint. On the palate it is taut and textured, with flavours of citrus, pear and quince supported by fine acidity and a touch of creamy depth from lees contact. The finish is long, pure and mineral, reflecting both the schist soils and the cool energy of the Wanaka slopes.

Rippon Sauvignon Blanc pairs beautifully with oysters, grilled white fish, goat cheese and herb salads. It also complements sushi, shellfish or lightly spiced dishes such as Thai lemongrass prawns. While captivating in its youth for its tension and vibrancy, it can develop beautifully over five to eight years, gaining subtle honeyed and toasty nuances with age.