2023 Robert Stein Dry Riesling, Mudgee

The majority of fruit is sourced from their estate vineyard at 580m above sea level in Mudgee. Delicate lilies of the valley meet freesia and star jasmine. A bouquet of pretty white blooms. Zested limes in a creamy cheesecake filling, sugar almonds and salt flakes. It slithers on the palate with the glide of a viper, and acidity strikes with its tail. It's pulpy and heavenly. Another outstanding vintage of this Mudgee beauty.

95 points Special Value Shanteh Wale winecompanion.com.au

Robert Stein Dry Riesling from Mudgee is one of New South Wales’ great hidden gems—a crisp, tightly coiled expression of Riesling with purity, texture, and a distinct sense of place. Grown in the high-altitude vineyards of the Mudgee region on the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range, this wine reflects both the resilience of the vineyard and the precision of the winemaking.

The Stein family has been farming in Mudgee since the 1830s and producing wine since the 1970s. Jacob Stein, the current winemaker and third-generation family member, has elevated the estate’s reputation in recent years with a focused, hands-off approach that combines deep local knowledge with experience abroad—particularly in the Mosel, where he honed his Riesling craft. Under his guidance, Robert Stein’s Rieslings have become some of the most acclaimed in the country, consistently winning major awards while retaining a fiercely regional character.

The grapes for the Dry Riesling are grown at over 500 metres elevation on gravelly, clay-loam soils with a limestone base, ideal for producing fruit with intensity and natural acidity. Harvested early to preserve freshness, the fruit is gently pressed and fermented cool with natural yeasts in stainless steel to retain aromatic clarity and drive. The wine is left on lees for a short period to build subtle texture and length.

In the glass, it’s zippy and focused, with aromas of lime zest, white peach, talc, and fresh herbs. The palate is bone dry with searing acidity, crunchy green apple, citrus blossom, and a fine mineral backbone. There’s a steely precision here, but also a soft textural core that gives it depth beyond its youthful zing.

This is a Riesling that will age beautifully, gaining toast, lanolin, and complexity over a decade or more—but it’s also mouthwateringly good right now, especially with oysters, Thai salads, or pan-fried fish.